If you’re looking for a rural retreat in Turkey, then you can’t get better than Hoyran Wedre Country Houses. Here you can unwind in blissful isolation, but if the mood takes you, there’s still range of activities on offer just a short walk or drive away.
The tiny, peaceful village of Hoyran is situated on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, offering breathtaking views and beautiful sunsets. Hoyran Wedre Country House is the home of Süleyman and Canan, two ex-engineers from Instanbul who decided to change their lifestyle and put all their savings into buying land and old farmhouses and turning them into this beautiful country retreat.
Large grounds encompass numerous old buildings that have been renovated to offer a variety of accommodation. Each room has been decorated with antique furniture sourced by Canan, and sizes vary from rooms for two people through to apartments for multiple guests, including living and kitchen spaces and even a private studio apartment, set away from the rest. Downstairs rooms have spacious patios mirrored by large balconies for those upstairs – big enough to even have spur of the moment group yoga session, as some of the guests did one afternoon!
Our room at Hoyran Wedre Country House
Our room, I believe, was probably one of the most basic, but it was still had everything you needed. The décor was not so much to my taste, but Justin (coming from a family of antique restorers) loved the eclectic mix of antiques, and of course, the musty smell that came with them.
Cute, if kitsch, bedding, tablecloths and curtains added to the old, country feel, but I can’t deny they made the room look pretty. I particularly liked that the room came with old bottles of fresh water that would be refilled whenever we needed, a kettle – a rarity in Turkey – and even fresh sage tea from the garden.
Used to a superking bed at home, we found the ‘normal’ double bed quite cosy, but it still provided a good night’s sleep. The only real disappointment was the shower facilities, as during my stay I found the water would constantly go from hot to cold whatever time of day I had a wash.
The placement of the room meant it stayed quite dark, but in one way they shade was a blessing from the hot Turkish sun, as we could sit in our cute patio space without the need to cover up. It didn’t feel hugely private though as we shared our patio and building with a group next door, but with such large grounds, finding a quiet spot was never really an issue!
I adored wandering the grounds every day – you can wander through the herb gardens, find rusting old farm equipment, sit on a swing and watch swimmers in the sea below or take a dip yourself in the oh so beautiful infinity pool. The chickens that wander around are highly entertaining to watch – one afternoon I was in fits of laughter watching one of them trying to chase a rouge cricket. Then there’s also their friendly dog Fistik (Turkish for pistachio) who’ll happily join you on country walks and regularly pop over to ask for a fuss.
As you’re out in the countryside there can be lots of mosquitoes about though. These little buggers are annoying, but if you protect yourself well you shouldn’t have too much of a problem. Suleyman and Canan have citronella candles at hand for the evenings if they start getting a bit too much.
From our room it was a small walk to the main ‘meeting’ area where you’d come for all your meals. In spring and summer these are served outside on a lovely patio and in winter there’s a large dining room with a big fire.
Just like at the Olympos Mountain Lodge in Beycik, the hosts cook all your food and where possible, fresh ingredients are used from the garden and all dishes are homemade.
Again at dinner we were treated to a number of Turkish delicacies, including chicken in carob sauce, Tavuk göğsü – a Turkish dessert made with chicken breast! – and Canan’s own creation, a filo pastry kebab.
Breakfast was just as much of a feast, with fresh bread, a variety of egg dishes included egg scrambled with pepper and tomato, cereals, salad and fruit from the garden. Canan is also very well known for her amazing jams and every morning we were given a dish of 16 different flavours, from sandalwood and olive through to mulberry and orange blossom.
I enjoyed all the food, but as a lover of afternoon tea I have to say that the highlight of my stay was that tea and cake was served on the patio daily at 5pm. Bliss!
What to do around Hoyran
Hoyran itself feels like it’s pretty much in the middle of nowhere, however you are quite close to several larger towns and of course the coast. You can take it easy on the grounds or head further afield and cycle or hiking the surrounding countryside. Or, if you prefer the water, its easy to head down to the coast for some paragliding or sea kayaking.
What you should not miss during a stay here however, is a walk to the ruins of Hoyran’s ancient Lycian city. Just 15-20 minutes from Hoyran Wedre, if free you can ask Süleyman to take you, or you can go out on your own.
Several of the guests we met were return visitors and they kindly said they’d take us there and give us their own take on a guided tour (a shout out to Richard, Martin and Carol – thanks guys!). A flat path takes you through some fields and past a few other houses but then its time for a short, steep climb, but one that’s totally worth it. Squeezing through a gap in the rocks is like stepping through the wardrobe into Narnia – you come face to face with the heart of an ancient city, with its necropolis and agora. It was amazing exploring this place, which we had all to ourselves apart from the random goat that wandered past.
In the air you could smell the fresh scent of oregano and sandlewood, as you walked between ancient tombs, alongside city walls and even dropped stones down very deep Lycian wells. The guys brought the city alive by sharing what Süleyman had told them during past visits, pointing out the stone of the philosopher king and the amazing inscriptions and decorations all over the tombs.
What I thought of Hoyran Wedre Country House
Of all the hotels I stayed in during my InnTravel adventure along the Lycian Way, Hoyran Wedre Country House was my favourite. Why? The people.
Our hosts were just so lovely and always had a smile on their faces. It’s just the two of them, so they work their arses off but if they not too busy working on something then they’ll always be happy to drive you places or even go out with you on walks. Richard told us about the time Süleyman invited him and Martin to join them when he went out to Demre market to pick up some food, and how he would always recommend little walks and day trips for them every time they came to stay.
Also every evening, after the food was cooked, they’d come out onto the patio and join us for drinks. Rightly so, Hoyran Wedre Country House is known for its hospitality, and I’d recommend it in a flash.
This is clear in the fact that most of the guests we met during our stay were return visitors. Many come back every couple of years or more just to unwind under the care of the amazing Süleyman and Canan.
When we left we were even treated to a local custom, which is to throw water over the car as you drive away. This is considered a friendly welcome to return, and one I definitely plan to take them up on…
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